Wednesday, October 27, 2010

End of Season at Seneca



Shooting Star

Living without reason
Climbing every season

Adding knowledge to the tomes
Photons dancing on my screen
Galaxies from another time
On my mind

But then

Outside, sunlight, trees and rocks,
Leading, focus, inner peace,
Skills no higher purpose served,
Friendship and companionship

Climbing every season
Living is the reason

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

Placing Pro Clinic Fundraiser

Participants of our Escape the Belay Clinic Fundraiser for the Mike Brown Expedition Grant fund of the Explorers Club of Pittsburgh expressed a strong preference that we teach a clinic on placing pro. Sam Taggart and I had initially said this would not be possible since our weekly club outing’s climbing location, McConnells Mills State Park, is not a trad climbing crag. But after a bit of scouting around in the two weeks after our first clinic, we did discover some areas just upstream of Sunshine Wall with a couple of cracks that take a variety of pro.

The clinic we offered on July 13, 2010 had three parts. The first part was a lecture / discussion session about the physics of placing pro. I started it by asking the participants to take a close look at a couple of nuts and cams of various sizes and to tell us what their strength rating is in units of kilo Newton (kN).

This led us to the first talking point, “Will this piece of gear hold me?” I asked everyone to calculate their weight, due to their mass and the gravitational acceleration on Earth, in kN. The answers unanimously were numbers below 1kN, around ¾ of a kN or so. This was well below the rating of even the smallest nut we looked at (4kN). We inferred this means that you can clip directly to even the smallest piece and it will not break under the load of your weight. The next situation we considered was having a rope clipped to the piece, and the climber sitting on the piece with the belay on. This introduced the pulley effect, which doubles the force at the piece. The resulting force was still only between 1 and 2kN, well below the rating of the smallest piece of gear that I carry (but potentially above what someone else has on their rack). The conclusion we drew was that most of the pieces would be OK to hangdog on or be lowered off of with a rope. The third scenario involved falling on the piece. We first discussed why we lead climb on a dynamic rope, and how it is the stretching of the rope which cushions our impact. In response to a question I digressed a bit into of how hard it is to say whether a certain fall will kill you or not, since it depends very much on which part of your body is impacted, and on the properties of the object that you hit. To assess falling on a piece of gear, I next introduced the equation for impact force and read off some examples of the forces for varying fall factors. (I also assumed as given a UIAA standard rope that allows for a 12kN impact force for a climber weighting 80kg). This exercise demonstrated that even small fall factors can generate forces on a piece that exceed its strength rating. We discussed the implications of the fall factor on strategies for how to space out our gear after we leave the belay, and along a route.

The second talking point I had prepared was, “Will the gear hold in the rock?” I spoke a little bit about contact forces, friction, and how the load of a piece is distributed to the rock that it is sitting in. Most importantly, using a simple demonstration, we saw that when we insert a piece into rock and expect it to stay there, the rocks must have the ability to push back onto the piece without breaking. This has implications for the macro- and micro-structure of the rock that should be considered in making a gear placement.
Finally, to segue into the practical aspect of the clinic, I introduced the acronym ROCS for assessing gear placements, and what kind of gear is best placed in what kind of rock geometry (V-shaped constrictions, pods, horizontals, etc).

The second part of the clinic was “U place pro.” Everyone swarmed out with either their own racks, or mini-racks we had assembled from our gear. The cracks Sam and I had found were concentrated in two separate areas, so half the class went to the first and the other half to the second one. I asked everyone to place as many nuts and cams as possible, and to make sure to place both, nuts and cams. Some people worked alone, others worked in teams of two, and there was immediately a lot of discussion about rock quality, features, and what piece should be tried.


The last part of the clinic was the critique. For this, Sam walked around and looked at and tugged on each and every piece, told us if he would take a fall on that piece, and invited discussion about the placement and its potential
improvements from all the participants. After we had looked at all the placements, there was actually enough time to have a second round of placing pro. Participants swapped areas and we repeated the placing and critiquing steps. Sam ended up having to use a flashlight to evaluate the placements; it was quickly getting dark on this overcast summer evening.

The group decamped to the Log Cabin, where Sam and I fielded additional questions over dinner. With seven participants, this clinic raised $35 for the Mike Brown Expedition Grant fund. And it was a lot of fun, as always, to talk with a group of enthusiastic climbers about the topic we all love.

Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Escape the Belay Clinic Fundraiser

The new Mike Brown Expedition Grant fund of the Explorers Club of Pittsburgh will enable a few explorers every year to have the adventure of their dreams. At the June general meeting of the club, it was hotly debated how additional monies should be raised to sustain the expedition grant in future years. One of the ideas that was mentioned was to teach clinics for donations.

At our next climbing outing to the Mills, Sam Taggart and I were discussing how much we both love teaching. That evening I just happened to be practicing to escape the belay, while Sam offered to play my injured climber. The idea was born: we thought that we could put together an "escape the belay" clinic as a fundraiser. If successful, we would come up with a few other topics throughout the summer, and with the money raised, we could help beef up our new expedition fund.

We finalized our lesson plan over the weekend, sent it out with an invitation and a suggested donation of $5 per person on the listserve on Monday, and stood ready to teach the clinic yesterday evening (6/29/10). We had no idea how many people would show... We ended up with a satisfyingly sizable crowd!

The scenario we adopted was the following: You and your climbing partner are top roping. You are belaying off of your harness, and you are anchored in. Imagine your climber’s foot gets stuck in a crack, and s/he can neither climb up, nor be lowered down. What do you do? You need to “escape the belay” to provide assistance or to call for help.

 


 
To start off the clinic, Sam and I partnered up for a demonstration of the entire procedure. In the interest of the limited amount of time available, I had suggested to do a simplified version which involved the Mule hitch with and Overhand tie off (MO) as the only new knot participants would have to master. Both the belay rope and the Prussik sling would be clipped back into the anchor with a locker. Sam preferred and demonstrated a more advanced scenario, in which the belay rope and the Prussik cord were attached to the lockers with the Munter-Mule-Overhand (MMO) knot. After the demonstration, participants used strands of rope to practice their MOs. Then it was time for everybody to partner up and run through the complete procedure. There was a buzz of excitement in the air when people were being tied off, even just a few feet off the deck. Some participants practiced my simple version, some moved on to work with Sam on the advanced version. The clinic only stopped when it became too dark to carry on.

The good news: 11 participants raised $55 for the Mike Brown Expedition Grant fund. 

Thank you everybody for participating, for donating money, and for making this such a fun and educational evening. Suggestions for future clinics included: learning to lead, placing pro, more rescue material. We will give that some thought. Say tuned to your ECP listserve for the announcement of our next clinic.

Monday, April 19, 2010

I've Been Working on the Trailroad

People have different reactions when I tell them about the project to improve the climber access trail to the Lower Slabs at Seneca Rocks in which I got involved last year as a crew leader. Most are very supportive and say this is a good thing. Some climbers feel that an improved trail will make the Lower Slabs more popular resulting in increased crowds of topropers who might get in the way of lead climbers, and they feel that is not a good thing.


The trail is designed specifically for climbers to access the Lower Slabs area in a safer and more environmentally friendly manner.

Environmentally friendly

* Climbers have made several trails to the Lower Slabs over time, cutting across from the hiking trail that leads to the observation deck over to the Lower Slabs crag in many different ways, regardless of the ground features and the vegetation. Water running down, rather than across these social trails causes erosion of the hill side. The new trail is designed to help manage erosion.
* The terrain below Scuttle and Discrepancy is extremely steep, with a hill slope of 80%, and has sparse vegetation. With every climber scrambling up to these climbs, the ground below the climbs is eroded away further. New switchbacks leading up from Scuttle to Discrepancy will help stabilize this area. A staging area across the base from Discrepancy will allow climbers not engaged in climbing to prepare gear and rest, out of the way of climbers currently on the face; this will further lessen the disturbance of the steep hill slope, and increase safety.

Safer
* The new trail has better footing than the old trails. Should we ever have to carry out an injured climber from the Lower Slabs area; the better footing on the trail will help us get our injured friend down more quickly.
* Part of the work on the new trail entails eliminating all the other social trails that have been established in this area over time. The discontinued trails are being camouflaged with brush cuttings, leaf litter, and other materials so that they blend in with the surrounding landscape. Having just one clearly identifiable access trail will help any emergency personnel to find the Lower Slabs area more quickly should we ever need to call them for help to evacuate an injured climber. These are just two important ways in which the new trail will improve climber safety.

How I got involved. I believe these efforts will ultimately benefit climbers at Seneca Rocks, and so I got involved in the project in October 2009, during the end-of-season Chili Cook-Off. Diane Kearns, co-owner of the Gendarme, and Ken Dzaack, of Canaan Valley Institute, a contractor hired by Friends of Seneca to design the new trail, presented the project to the climbing community. The idea is that while Friends of Seneca paid to have the trail design done, it is up to climber volunteers to implement the project and build the actual trail. To facilitate this process, Ken Dzaack briefed a small number of volunteer crew leaders early in the spring of 2010. The crew leaders will then explain the project and help an increasing number of volunteers during three trail work weekends to build the new trail and discontinue the social trails.

I signed up right away to be trained as a crew leader. I was excited by the prospect of becoming more involved with a climbing area that has given me so much pleasure and pain. I was also lured by the prospect of learning a new, manual skill. Being an academic, I do very little work with my hands other than typing on the computer keyboard; I thought it might be good for me to try my hand at trail construction instead.

The crew leader training took place on March 21, 2010. It was an amazingly beautiful early-season day at Seneca. Twelve of us, climbers and non-climbers, locals and people from hundreds of miles away, came together to learn about the project. The morning was very cold, and we crammed into the Gendarme with coffee and cinnamon rolls provided by Diane, for an about 2 hour briefing by Ken Dzaack on the fundamentals of trail building, which included a vocabulary sheet and the infamous “forest service typicals,” drawings of US Forest Service recommended trail profiles, as well as a good dose of “Ken’s rules.” After that, we followed Ken and Jeff “the Forest Service guy” to the parking lot at the start of the north face trail, to pick up the tools which the Forest Service is providing for the project. I thought a hammer is a hammer is a hammer…not. Who knew that there are at least six different types of hammer?! After picking out a tool, we had to practice our “tailgate talk.” This is the briefing that the crew leader gives to the crew about the goals and safety concerns of the day’s work, and includes such nifty terms as the “blood circle.” Ken and Jeff then led us up to the start of the climber access trail. We first walked it together, to gain an overview of the entire project and understand what kind of work we should do where.

After that, we broke into three teams, and went to work. It took me all day to build an about one foot high and one foot wide piece of a retaining wall, made out of stones I found along the trail, with Ken and Arthur Kearns supervising and correcting me on and off. I got so involved in my project that the day seemed to end all too soon. The crew leaders returned to the Gendarme for libations, and a Mexican dinner cooked by Diane. It had become clear that each of us has different experience and skill with manual labor. For my part, I could not see myself directing the work needed for building the switchbacks or the landing. But I thought I might be able to work with other volunteers on the more gentle slopes of the 500 feet of trail before you get to Scuttle.

Since we got our crew leader training done on Saturday we did not need to work on Sunday which had been set aside as a rain day. On Sunday then I actually got to climb! With no crowds, Mark “Indy” Kochte and I headed for Skyline Traverse. I had long since wanted to lead the “scary” pitch 2 of the route, but there is almost always a long line for this route on weekends. That Sunday, I finally got her done!

April 10 & 11 was the first trail work weekend with volunteers. My crew included two fellow ECPers, Toni Price and Phil Sidel, plus Phil Hodge, a climber friend from Baltimore. Once again we were blessed with a sunny weekend. But it was still very cold, especially over night.

Toni, Phil and I shared a ride to Seneca on Friday, and arrived early enough to have daylight left. Toni and I headed up to the Lower Slabs because I wanted to review the design document and figure out which stations we should work on, and which tools we would need to take for those jobs. Of course we also took a rope and some webbing, and set up a toprope on Scuttle. It had been 44F downtown Seneca when we headed up for the Lower Slabs. As the afternoon progressed, it seemed to grow steadily colder, and the wind picked up. Nevertheless, Toni and I got a couple of burns in on Scuttle, before we decamped for food and warmth, joining up with Phil for our first Front Porch pizza of the season. It was too frosty to sit on the porch itself; we actually grabbed the table next to the restaurant’s only heater.

Saturday started with hot coffee and banana bread at the Gendarme. Three crews of volunteers were formed, and we headed to the parking lot for the tailgate talks and to pick up our tools from the Forest Service. The day was very beautiful. Redbuds were bursting into bloom all around us, and our spirits were high. Toni Price carried a saw, to remove a small tree in the section of trail we were going to work on, and promptly went to work with it as soon as we arrived at our station. Phil Sidel spent three hours with the sledge hammer, turning big rocks into little rocks for filler material. This earned him a new nickname; we now call him “The Crusher.” Remember that when you next see him! Phil Hodge and I tried to build a step down, using rocks and the filler. I say tried because although we got it done on Saturday, Jeff the Forest Service guy tore it down on Sunday, showing us how we had ignored some important trail building fundamentals.

Trail work is not without danger. Toni and Phil Hodge were moving a large rock into place late that afternoon, when they slipped and got their fingers wedged in. Phil’s looked bad right away, like his thumb would turn into a balloon in no time. He headed down to town to ice it. Not far behind him, we spent Saturday evening in front of the Gendarme. The day had warmed up nicely and we were able to decompress and exchange trail stories over well-earned beers. Diane came through once again with a Cajun dinner for all.

Sunday morning, after loading up on coffee and coffee cake at the Gendarme, we headed up to the Lower Slabs once again. Phil’s finger, thankfully, was not too swollen or bruised to keep him from joining us. We continued to build a set of retaining walls, and consulted with Jeff on a difficult section of the trail for which Ken’s design calls for the addition of four steps. Once again the day flew by all too quickly. A sweaty, exhausted, and happy crew returned to the Front Porch for a final joint meal before heading off into different directions.

Reflections. Working on the trail has been a humbling experience for me. It turned out to be a lot harder to build a sustainable trail of all natural materials than I would have thought. I feel good though; I have learned a lot, and I get much joy from imagining that our retaining walls will still be there a hundred years from now. Well, at least I hope they’ll still be there when I return for more trail work in July. The camaraderie of the volunteers was so worth the sweat and aches and bruises, and the hard work felt really good for the soul.

Please, consider volunteering. There are two more trail work weekends coming up, set for July 10 & 11, and September 25 & 26. Please, come and join us. If you cannot do the trail work weekends, there will be opportunities to give to Friends of Seneca during the Cinco the Mayo Party in May and the end of season Chili Cook-Off in October. Another way to help is to purchase the Seneca Rocks 2011 calendar. I have made a wall calendar from my photographs of Seneca Rocks to help raise funds for Friends of Seneca. Calendars make great birthday presents and Holiday gifts. I will have some on hand at future ECP general meetings, and you can also purchase them on the internet.



Monday, March 22, 2010

Friends of Seneca Lower Slabs Trail Work Weekends

Like tools? Love getting dirty? Enjoy giving back to the climbing community? Then consider volunteering for the Friends of Seneca Lower Slabs project. The goals of the project are:
  • Increase the safety of the climber trail
  • Correct erosion problems on the trail and in the areas below the routes, and prevent future problems
  • Develop one designated climber trail to the Lower Slabs
  • Limit the disturbance created by the project to preserve the experience.
 
Seneca Rocks is best known as a multi-pitch trad crag. The Lower Slabs area features several single-pitch trad routes which are also top-ropeable. It is a popular site for groups with a range of climbing experiences.

The Lower Slabs project began in August 2009, after the USDA Forest Service started planning trail construction and the development of a viewing area along the Lower Slabs access trail formerly used primarily by climbers. This trail is a branch off the popular hiking trail that leads to the observation deck on the North Peak. The Forest Service will develop this branch into a wider and more accessible trail that ends in a new viewing area of the rocks for the public. The end of this spur and the start of the new climber access trail to the Lower Slabs climbing area will be clearly marked by a “Climbers Only” sign, similar to the sign posted at the observation deck which warns hikers to not proceed to the climbs off the North Peak-East Face.

Friends of Seneca, an all volunteer organization, will reconstruct the 600 feet of climber trail, with a 100 feet elevation gain, leading from the far side of the new Forest Service observation area to the Lower Slabs climbing area. The climber trail will meet the slabs near “Scuttle.” A series of switchbacks will be put in place to facilitate the ascent of the 80% slope that leads from “Scuttle” to “Discrepancy.” Across from “Discrepancy,” the design, provided by Ken Dzaack of Canaan Valley Institute, calls for the construction of an 80-square-feet landing that can be used as a staging area for the climbs.

On March 20, Dzaack trained a dozen crew leader volunteers. Three crews, staffed by the crew leaders and a small number of volunteers, will be kicking off the work on April 10-11, and continue to work with a growing pool of volunteers on the weekends of July 10-11 and September 25-26.

Get involved! Volunteers are still needed for the trail work weekends. Please, stop by or contact Seneca Rocks Climbing School located in the Gendarme climbing shop. Ask or leave a message for Diane Kearns, co-owner of the Gendarme/SRCS, who is coordinating the project. 

Resource documents
Trail Construction and Maintenance Notebook (pdf file)
Lower Slabs Trail Design for Friends of Seneca (pdf file)

How to volunteer
Contact Diane Kearns at the Gendarme/SRCS.

What to bring for trail work weekends
Trail work is done using native materials, rocks and stones and trees. You need to wear appropriate clothing to protect yourself. Bring your own lunch and water. The Forest Service will provide the tools. Work will proceed in good weather conditions, only.

Necessities: Boots, helmet, heavy gloves, safety glasses.

Friends of Seneca will help defer the cost of camping and Diane Kearns will provide a breakfast for the volunteers. Please contact Diane Kearns at the Gendarme/SRCS; she will put you on the mailing list for the trail work weekends.

Who are the Friends of Seneca
Friends of Seneca is an all volunteer organization that maintains the climber access trails and rescue caches at Seneca Rocks. The Friends Seneca website is seneca-rocks.com/srcs_site/information/friendsofseneca.html .

Support Friends of Seneca
If you cannot participate in the trail work, you can help by buying the Seneca Rocks 2011 calendar.

Monday, February 1, 2010

One Tough Mixed Line

After the warm spell the 3rd week of January, temps were finally falling below freezing once again last week. In addition, two ultra cold nights held the promise of the ice’s return for the weekend.

Dr. Bob and I headed out on Saturday, not quite sure where to climb. We debated in the car heading down the turnpike. Tim was not going to join us, but he gave us some ideas about the shape the ice was in. Bob stubbornly rejected my plea to check on the easy gullies (if I’m ever leading ice again it will certainly be a gully) … SCII was not a good choice for a Saturday … Meadows might be too crowded … although much of the ECP would be at Kinzu. I suggested we should try Irishtown given that I hadn’t been there yet this season. Bob agreed, since he hadn’t been there in quite some time either.

Naturally, we stopped at the Valley Dairy, where, just like last ice season, the staff now recognizes us as regulars and we are able to order without looking at the menus. No answer from Rayman, whom we called to see if he was interested in breakfast. A heap of pancakes, French toast and oink oink later, we wracked our brains trying to remember just how to get to Irishtown (in view of life over 50 and the troubling memory losses we have both been experiencing of late). Triumph over aging…our combined memories served; and we recognized the pull off when we got there. We were surprised by a big, brand new house on Twin Oak Road, and we also noticed quite an amount of logging on the upper cliff.

There had clearly been a lot of ice at Irishtown earlier in the month, given the refrigerator-sized chunks lying around near the cave. The ice which was left/re-formed had a very pretty, blue color, but it was not attached and there wasn’t enough of it to climb. After debating whether to relocate to the Meadows, we headed to the upper section to at least take a look.

There was plenty of ice all along the upper section. But on any given possible line, there was either ice at the bottom but not at the top, or there was ice at the top and not at the bottom. We saw one line which had clearly been picked on this season. The ice was about shoulder wide at the top. The bottom half, however, only had a very narrow column of ice on the right, and what looked like some fairly easy rock to the left. We decided this was our best bet: do a mixed start, and then transfer into the true ice-climb for the top section. Only problem with the bottom … the rock was behind the ice of course, and with both tools in the ice and the crampons on the rock, you got into an overhanging situation. It was quite hard to pull yourself up and into the ice, but we were on toprope, so we kept at it.

We each did two runs on the line, then took a break to drink some tea and practiced placing ice screws. It was not worth moving the rope, and we’d just run up the same line for a third time. “You know,” Bob said, “I’m losing my memory so fast that after this cup of tea the line will seem like a whole new climb!” See. Just goes to show that aging can have a positive effect on your climbing enjoyment.

My second run was the best of the day. I really styled it, with a heel hook on the rock, a drop knee transfer onto the ice ledge. Cool! I got hit by some ice that cut my face, which I did not notice until that tell-tale iron taste in my mouth. Bob took my picture. Wounded on one tough mixed line … but styling it, yeah! My third run was not quite a strong; also, the ice in the top section had worn off considerably from our previous runs. After his third burn on the line, Bob topped out to break down the rigging. Inspection of our tools and crampons showed noticeable wear from the dry-tooling. We, too, were pretty beat. Overhanging ice has its moments…

On the way home, we stopped by Exkursion because Bob wanted to buy the new Sabretooth crampons. Lucky for me, Fred was there, giving me an opportunity to brag about my accomplishments and show off my bloody face to him.

Another good day on the ice! I’m still feeling sore two days later… This must have been a V-ish line.

Photo credit: Bob Coblentz

Wednesday, January 13, 2010

Goodbye tree, hello ice!


December was the month of in between. Our fabulous rock season ended in November. December came, but ice did not. We swung our tools at the tree in Shenley park in anticipation. Then, on January 1st, the temperatures dropped below the freezing mark, where they stayed for 11 days. Finally, last weekend, we had lots of climbable ICE.

Saturday got very busy at the three ice flows at the Meadows which were in good. There was a lot of climbers from the Explorers Club of Pittsburgh, other Pittsburgh and Ohiopyle climbers, even a group from Maryland. Action at the Meadows included Sam's leader fall. This was the first time I experienced someone falling on an ice lead. All of his three screws held. Sam is fine!

Sunday up on the ridge the snow was hip deep, and, at 4F, the ice was very hard. Laura asked me if I ever wanted to lead on ice. I actually did one ice lead once, a 2+ at Thunder Bay. Before I got on the climb I made everyone there promise that if I did one ice lead they'd get forever off my back about leading ice. So there you have it, don't ask me again, I am just too scared! Toproing steep ice is just fine with me...

From the many pictures that I took last weekend, I assembled my first movie.

Check it out! 




Another rewarding experience on the drive back home to Pittsburgh on Sunday night was that we saw a sun pillar. This is only the second time I've seen one. My first sighting of this phenomenon was on that ice climbing trip to Thunder Bay. Sun pillars occur when the sun is low in the sky and its light reflects off of ice crystals in the Earth's atmosphere. That gives you another visual of just how cold it was on Sunday! I did not have my camera handy in the car. The picture to the left is from the Astronomy Picture of the Day website, where you can read more about this photograph of a sun pillar.